Sinh ra ở đất Bắc, tôi không biết cây cao su là gì ngoài những hình ảnh trong sách vở, hay trong những câu ca dao về nỗi vất vả của những phu cao su vài thập kỷ trước.

Đến khi trưởng thành, từ lúc biết cầm bút và cầm máy, tôi mường tượng ra khung cảnh thiên nhiên rợp ngợp mà mê đắm của rừng cao su mùa lá rụng, trải một thảm lá vàng, nhuốm màu đất và bìa rừng. Còn cao su mùa xuân hay hè ra sao, tôi không có ý niệm.

Tháng 3 Tây Nguyên, tháng 3 của hoa cà phê, của hồ tiêu, của những bông dã quỳ nở muộn. May mắn cho tôi khi quen biết một người bạn trên Gia Lai và khi tôi hỏi về rừng cao su tháng 3 như thế nào, anh bảo cả cái đất Gia Lai này ngập tràn cao su, nhiều không kém gì cà phê.

Anh bạn chở tôi đến một bìa rừng, một rừng cao su thật sự mà lần đầu trong đời tôi thấy tận mắt, nghe mùi lá hòa trong mùi đất đỏ bazan.

Không như hoa tam giác mạch chỉ đẹp ở Đồng Văn hay những vườn hướng dương nổi tiếng ở Nghệ An, Đà Lạt, cả Tây Nguyên này bạt ngàn cao su. Không một bóng du khách, biển chỉ đường hay dấu hiệu của những tay săn ảnh, cả cánh rừng cao su như nằm trong tay tôi, rất đỗi yên ả và hiền hòa.

Khu rừng anh bạn tôi dẫn đến nằm ở huyện Chư Păh, phía bắc thành phố Pleiku (Gia Lai). Chạy dọc quốc lộ 14 về phía Kon Tum sẽ thấy một lối nhỏ dẫn đi thủy điện Yaly và cánh rừng này nằm bên tay phải.

Trải ra trước mắt là cánh rừng cao su được tưới tắm trong ánh nắng tháng 3, một bức tranh được phối màu hài hòa với màu đỏ của đất, vàng của nắng, nâu của lá khô và tươi xanh của những chùm non mới hé.

Tây Nguyên cuối mùa khô, những cành non vẫn chưa lên lá hết, để lại những khoảng thân cây còi cọc, trơ trụi. Người ta đã vô tình bỏ qua khoảnh khắc giao mùa này của rừng cao su, khi tầng lá khô vẫn dày và những chồi non vẫn chưa ra hết.

Với tôi, khúc giao mùa vẫn là thời điểm đẹp nhất để tận hưởng dư vị của cả hai mùa.

Lạc bước trong rừng cao su, chỉ có tiếng lá xào xạc dưới chân, thỉnh thoảng có tiếng gió thổi qua còn không gian vẫn im lặng như tờ. Tôi khẽ bước trên mặt đất như sợ làm đau những tán lá khô.

Cao su thay lá từ đầu tháng 11, tạo nên một bức tranh vừa buồn, u tịch lại quạnh quẽ cho khu rừng. Từ thời điểm đó tới hết mùa khô, những đợt lá vẫn tiếp tục rụng và cây bắt đầu thay lá.

Cái không khí của khu rừng cao su tháng 3 vừa có gì trầm mặc, nhưng cũng bừng lên sức sống nhờ nắng và những tán lá xanh.

Ghé thăm rừng cao su tháng 3, tuyệt nhiên không thấy bóng dáng của những người thợ cạo mủ cao su. Mùa xuân là lúc cây cao su không cho mủ, sau bao tháng nhọc nhằn cống hiến những dòng chảy trắng muốt cho đời.

Không còn những vết cứa mới trên thân, hàng cao su đứng im lìm tích tụ sức sống cho một mùa mới đang đến gần. Những chiếc bát đựng mủ nằm im lặng bên những dòng mủ lâu ngày, chuyển sang màu nâu trên thân cây.

Có người nói, thăm rừng cao su tháng 3 là lúc bạn thấy hồn mình lắng lại, nhất là khi cảnh vật cũng được trả lại những phút giây yên bình. Không còn tiếng cười nói huyên náo của công nhân cao su, không còn những dòng mủ trắng chảy trên thân cây già nua… mà chỉ còn những bóng cây in hằn vạt nắng trên thảm lá khô.

Nằm ngay bên đường quốc lộ mà đi giữa rừng cao su, cảm giác như lạc vào một thế giới xa lạ, hoàn toàn khác.

Cơn gió đại ngàn Tây Nguyên hút theo những hàng cây trải dài tít tắp mang đến một cảm giác thoáng đãng, tự do tự tại.

Có lẽ nếu có thời gian, tôi sẽ thử bước dọc rừng cao su xem nó sẽ đưa mình tới đâu, bởi trước mặt tôi chỉ là một con đường được dựng lên từ hai hàng cây thẳng tắp mà điểm cuối chỉ là một chấm sáng nho nhỏ, như ánh sáng ở cuối đường hầm.

Và hơn hết, cái cảm giác tuyệt nhất ở chốn cô tịch này là thấy dấu hiệu của sự sống. Hai bên rừng cây được phân tách bởi một con đường đất đỏ mà khi nắng chiếu xuống tạo thành những làn khói lam chiều, bồng bềnh trong không gian.

Thỉnh thoảng có những chiếc xe máy chạy qua, cuốn tung bụi đất đỏ. Họ là những công nhân của nông trường cao su này, có lẽ vậy hoặc vài người thích cái cảm giác chạy dưới tầng lá cao su, êm đềm, mộc mạc mà bình yên.

Rời cánh rừng cao su Chư Păh, tôi lại nhớ đến câu “cao su đi dễ khó về…”. Có lẽ cái “khó về” giờ đây không phải là ký ức đau thương của một thời khốn khó, mà là cái hồn người đi vãn cảnh đã để lại đâu đó nơi rừng cao su trổ lá kia mất rồi.

Màu xanh rêu của thân cây hòa cùng màu vàng của lá khô

Lớp lá vàng trải dày dưới mặt đất

Những thân cây cao su lành lặn, không còn vết cứa mủ trong tiết trời xuân

Những lộc non vươn mình trong nắng chiều

Lối đi hun hút giữa cánh rừng, chỉ còn một chấm sáng xa thẳm

Màu xanh khói lam chiều vờn bay trên con đường đất đỏ

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